The transformation of fabrics
Last Saturday, at the Gutgar Experience school, five women took part in a master class led by Conchi Menéndez. In her workshop, the hours passed silently as they immersed themselves in learning this technique, where the combination of natural materials and artisanal work transformed a simple fabric into a textile piece with character.
The foundation of this process begins with choosing the base material: tartalana or cotton taffeta, fabrics whose structure allows the wool—the main protagonist of this technique—to adhere perfectly. This Merino wool was known as “White Gold” for its softness and exceptional quality in the 15th and 16th centuries.
To achieve the perfect fusion, the fiber is placed in a cross-layered arrangement, ensuring a homogeneous distribution that facilitates the bonding process.
Water and friction are the true alchemists of this process. Moisture is key to activating the fibers, and the use of mosquito netting—often avoided by some—proved to be an invaluable trick, helping to keep the fibers in place while trapped air was removed. The next step is rolling with sticks, an exercise in patience and precision. The piece is rolled 50 times in one direction and then 50 times in the opposite direction, allowing the structure to settle and strengthen.
Next, hot water and vinegar come into play—a bath that cleans soap residues and seals the fibers. Finally, the spinning cycle removes excess moisture, and a good ironing session gives the piece its final shape, enhancing its texture and defining its character.